Microparticles and VOCs inhalation, since the printer are not (yet) equipped with ventilated enclosures. Make sure to print with low emitting resins, or use a respiratory mask.
Allergic reaction caused by exposure to the resin.
Mandatory : respiratory mask to prevent VOCs and microparticules inhalation until the printer is equipped with a ventilation system.
Mandatory : nitrile or latex gloves to avoid contact with the resin.
Mandatory : safety googles to avoid resin in your eyes.
Mandatory : long sleeves to avoid contact with the resin.
The following text is from the official Phrozen Sonic Mighty 4k User Manual.
- On your computer, import the STL file to CHITUBOX V1.7.0 or above.
- Click settings to add a new printer "Sonic Mighty 4K". Set your Print Parameters according to the resin you will use.
- Slice the 3D file and save it as CTB file, then import it onto your USB.
- Install the building plate and resin vat to your Sonic Mighty 4K.
- Make sure that both the resin vat and the building plate are clean and do not have any residual resin.
- Shake the resin bottle for 1 minute. When pouring, make sure the resin does not exceed the mark on the resin vat.
- Insert your USB into Sonic Mighty 4K. Choose the file and click GO to begin printing.
- Keep the plastic case closed during printing to prevent excessive UV light.
The following text is inspired from the official Phrozen Sonic Mighty 4k Post-Processing guide.
- Getting prepared : Add paper towels on the bench to absorb the resin, and take 1 container with IPA.
- Once printing is complete, remove the building plate from the printer. Then tilt and place the building plate onto a table and use the metal scraper to carefully remove your print.
- Remove the 3D Model from the Building Plate : Place the building plate on a flat, stable surface. Then use the metal scraper included in your toolbox to remove the model.
- Clean your Models with an Ultrasonic Cleaner : add the model into the IPA container, and place this container into the ultrasonic cleaner for 30 seconds. Check whether your model has been thoroughly cleaned and repeat the process when necessary. Do not soak your model for more than 30 seconds each time as overexposure to cleaning fluid may damage the model.
- Remove Supports from the 3D Model : You might need to remove the tree-like support structures attached to your model by carefully snipping off the supports with a snip cutter — without damaging the surface of the print. Click here to learn more about the importance of setting supports. Note: You can also choose to remove the supports on your 3D prints after post-curing.
- Dry the 3D Model : Before moving onto post-curing, leave the model to dry in a shaded area for 30-60 minutes. Make sure there is no uncured resin left on the 3D print. You can also use a compressed air gun to fasten the process.
We usually use this drying time to clean the bench, see below.
- Post-Curing : After your model is completely dry, place it directly into a Phrozen Curing Unit (5 to 20 minutes should work, it depends on the size of the model and the resin used) or use direct sunlight to cure your 3D prints.
- Refill the resin bottle with the remaining liquid resin left in the vat. Use a funnel and a filter.
- Clean the vat : spray IPA on the frame, and wipe it with a paper towel. Spray IPA onto the FEP film, then use the plastic scrapper to gently remove the remaining resin. Repeat if needed. Once cleaned, place the vat back into the printer.
- Clean the building plate and tools : remove the excess of resin with a paper towel. Then spray IPA, and clean with a paper towel. Repeat if needed.
- Clean the bench : dispose of paper towels in the solid waste garbage can under the bench. Then spray IPA onto the bench and wipe it with a paper towel.
Used paper towel goes into the solid waste garbage can below the bench only.
When IPA containers need to be cleaned, the liquid waste goes into the liquid waste garbage can below the bench only.
¶ Maintenance
Text from: https://helpcenter.phrozen3d.com/hc/en-us/articles/6365138684569
FEP and PFA (nFEP) films may start to have signs of wear and tear after printing for a while. Once it has major signs of wear and tear, dents, deformation, or piercings, it may be time to replace it. There are a few conditions that indicate that the FEP or PFA (nFEP) film requires replacing, these signs include:
- Severe dents, bumps, and scratches.
- Too cloudy.
- Loss of tension.
- Pierced.
Text from : https://helpcenter.phrozen3d.com/hc/en-us/articles/6453714682905--Sonic-Mighty-4K-Replacing-the-FEP-Film
Replacing the FEP film or PFA (nFEP) film is an essential maintenance task for resin 3D printers. It needs to be changed if it becomes dented, deformed, or pierced, but minor scratches and smudges on the film usually don't require replacement as they don't affect print quality.
- Take the VAT and clean it thoroughly with the sanitizing alcohol, then use a soft paper towel to wipe it and let it dry.
- Place the resin vat in an upside-down position and loosen the 20 screws from the vat using 2.5mm wrench.
- Take the metal frame off the bottom of the resin vat with a wrench
- Set aside the resin vat and flip over the metal frame
- Use a 2.5mm wrench to unscrew the screws that hold the 2 metal frames together
- Remove the old FEP film
- Clean the vat and frame to remove any residual resin
To loosen stubborn screws, apply alcohol, to the screw joints and let them sit for about 15 minutes before attempting to loosen them again.
- Remove the protective layers from the new FEP film before installing it onto the frame.
- Sandwich the new FEP film between the two metal frames
- Hold it in place and once the holes and everything else are properly lined up
- Poke holes in the FEP film with a sharp-pointed item like a wrench
- Tighten the 4 screws located at the corners, alternating between opposite corners to ensure even tension
- Tighten the 6 screws located in the middle of each side, alternating between opposite screws
- Tighten the remaining screws alternatively
- Flip over the newly installed FEP frame and place it back onto the resin vat. The holes with the bevels should be pointed up
- Tighten the 8 screws located at the four corners of the frame diagonally
- Tighten the 8 screws located in the middle of each side diagonally
- Tighten the remaining 2.5mm screws
- Using a box cutter, trim the excess FEP film as close to the vat as possible, ensuring that nothing protrudes
- Finished
Information obtained from Alveo-3D:
- Use disposable gloves to handle the filter;
- Handle the filters by the fabric handles;
- Place the filters into the plastic zip bag that comes with the filter;
- Ideally, the filters should be disposed of at an incineration plant.
We use resin for LCD printers exclusively.
This is a non exhaustive list of suppliers :
- 3D advances
- Atome3D
- Machines 3D
Resin waste do not go into the regular trash!
- Solid wastes (non-polymerized supports, contaminated paper towels, etc.) go into the solid waste garbage can under the bench.
- Liquid wastes (used IPA with high concentration of resin) go into the liquid waste garbage can under the bench.
In short (for the Phrozen Mighty 4k) : set the layer height to 35um, and tilt the pieces with an angle of 45°.